While one may imagine the typical sandwich to be somewhat robust, a JSEC stall has redefined the expectations on the customary buns. In Kapao, the star of the mains is light as air-steamed bao. Pair the pillowy clouds with scrumptious meat slices, and you have a selection that breaks the sandwich monotony with a clear “Kapow!”

Taste

The elusive and crispy bagnet is one offering favored by many, including the stall owners. Though shyly enveloped in a few leafy greens, the generous slice peeks confidently out of the buns. The bao itself is dripping with a sweet viscous sauce. One bite is proof that the briny bagnet means a crunchy affair.

But Kapao is more than just the stall that sells bagnet. The equally competitive chicken and pork katsu offer better choices. The Chicken-pao smells fragrantly of soy-garlic. The slivers of cucumber are fresh, but the chicken gets soggy over time. Still, the saccharine sauce complements the juiciness of the chicken. Meanwhile, the Katsu-pao boasts a unique sesame taste. The pendant of mayo isn’t cloying, adding a rich dimension to the crispy pork.

Whilst hunger is satisfied, one can only wish that the food is warmer to appease the groaning stomach.

Concept

Kapao was born wittily out of the cuapao, a folded Chinese sweet bun. Stall owner Philippe Gutierrez recalls that they took notice of the thriving interest for Chinese food in JSEC. “We wanted something different, like street food,” he says. They also made it a point to incorporate Filipino flavors that will accompany the neutral-tasting baos. “We also wanted a fusion for variety so we can grow,” he adds.

Value for money

The paos are the very definition of sulit. In fact, nowhere else can one buy bagnet for Php 60. The offered sides are also very filling and affordable. What’s more, the single and pair options expand the bao as a snack or a meal. “We want [our customers] to come back,” Gutierrez says. With Kapao, it literally feels as if every day is a cheat day.

Final verdict

If you’re craving for something savory but you’re always on the go, consider Kapao a mainstay for one of your go-to meals.

Rating: 4/5

Photo by Zach Garcia.