Every year, we’re treated with the familiar rotations of fried chicken, burgers, and saucy rice bowls. There’s nothing wrong with the staples, but rarely do we get a breath of fresh, aromatic air. This time, surely enough, we did in the form of Sutra—notable for its distinct, rich flavours which accurately reflect different regions of Indian cuisine, Sutra brings in arguably the best value in all of JSEC.

Taste

Butter Chicken is Sutra’s best selling dish—moist chicken breast is slow cooked in a rich gravy of tomato, butter, and garam masala, then laid on top of a steaming cup of rice. This dish is the gateway for newcomers to Indian cuisine; the hefty bite of the chicken is a vehicle that delivers the fragrant turmeric, coriander and clove in its masala spice mix, complemented by the sweet, richness of the butter sauce. However,  the chicken’s doneness is prone to inconsistency and may sometimes come out dry or slightly overcooked.

The Boneless Crispy Chicken is Sutra’s take on the classic chicken curry.  This dish consists of boneless chicken thigh, lightly seasoned from meat to skin with their masala spice mix. It’s served with rice, and topped with their signature spicy chicken curry stock. This curry sauce—the backbone of Sutra’s offerings—packs a subtle heat that makes its presence felt with finesse. The rich chicken flavours and umami complete the one-two punch in every bite.

Like most of JSEC’s fried offerings, unless you’re made to wait for a freshly cooked batch, the chicken may not be at its freshest, where it’s most crisp. However, the batter and spice rarely deteriorate no matter what time of day you order, especially with the consistently heated curry.

Concept

What delineates Sutra from its predecessor, Rob n Fid, is its core of social entrepreneurship. Owner Sagi Nathan ran a 33% discount for full scholars last year, and now employs a Suspended Meal Scheme, which allows concerned, generous customers to pay ahead for student scholars who wish to avail of a free or discounted meal.

Their menu also employs a mix of northern and southern Indian influences. Northern cuisine is heavily influenced by its Central Asian neighbours, which explains the creamy Butter Chicken. Southern cuisine is more likely to feature vegetarian options, and is known to be the hotter, spicier region. Sagi’s childhood and hometown was surrounded by Southern influences, but his studies brought him to round out his flavor vocabulary. This is exemplified in Sutra’s Pork Korma which takes notes from both dominant cuisines.

Value for Money

By virtue of the sheer amount of Sutra’s meat-to-rice ratio, where they never shy away from piling heaps of their meats, or generously pouring their curry sauce, this stall is a sure wallet winner. All dishes go for Php 90 as solo meals, and if you add Php 30, you get a large serving of their spiced omelette, or a large potato samosa, as a side. If a full stomach is what you seek, no other stall fills you up while doing a better job.

Verdict

Sutra’s loyalty to authentic flavours and large servings is the core of their amassed cult-like following of repeat customers. It takes strong roots in its owner’s culture and proud identity to confidently offer the quite diverse range of flavours noted within Indian cuisine, but Sutra succeeds with flying colours, as vibrant as the dishes it offers.  

5/5